Copyright 1994 The Chicago Tribune
Knight-Ridder Newspapers/Tribune Information Services

By Barbara Sullivan
Chicago Tribune 

Although we often think of pasta as Italian, noodles in many shapes and forms are
common in other cuisines.

Here are pasta recipes from Hungary, China and, of course, Italy. 

Recipes with Pasta:  
Pork Paprikash with Noodles; 
Pan-Fried Noodles with Stir-Fried Chicken and Leeks; 
Pasta, Amatrice Style;
Fettuccine with Lemon;
Penne with Four Cheeses

This Hungarian recipe is adapted from ``The World's Best Noodles'' by Norman
Kolpas. Use hot or sweet paprika, or a mixture, as your taste dictates. Try this recipe with
chicken, turkey or beef too.

Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes
Yield: 4 servings 
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 pound pork tenderloin, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 medium-sized red bell pepper, quartered, stemmed, seeded cut crosswise into 1/4-inch
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1/2 pound wide dried egg noodles
2 tablespoons paprika
2 teaspoons caraway seeds
1/2 cup medium-dry white wine
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 cup sour cream
1 tablespoon tomato paste
White pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives 

1. Melt the butter and oil in a large skillet or saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the
pork, bell pepper and onion and cook until the pork is lightly browned and the
vegetables are tender-crisp, about 5 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, heat a medium-size saucepan of water to a boil. Add the noodles and a
sprinkling of salt and boil until the noodles are al dente, following package instructions.

3. Meanwhile, add the paprika and caraway seeds to the pork mixture and cook 1 minute
more. Add the wine and lemon juice and heat to a boil, stirring and scraping to dissolve
the pan deposits; reduce the heat slightly and simmer gently for about 5 minutes.

4. Stir in the sour cream and tomato paste, reduce the heat to low, and simmer 2 to 3
minutes more. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and white pepper.

5. Drain the noodles well and put them in a large serving bowl or on four individual
plates. Spoon the pork mixture over the noodles and garnish with chives. 

This mild, sweet, yet distinctly oniony flavor of the leeks and their almost melting
texture when stir-fried nicely complement the chicken. Use a metal serving spoon, or a
knife, if necessary, to cut through the crisply browned noodle pancake when serving.
Adapted from a Chinese recipe in ``The World's Best Noodles'' by Norman Kolpas. 

Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Yield: 4 servings 
3/4 pound fresh or 1/2 pound dried thin Asian egg or wheat noodles
2 medium-size leeks
1&1/2 cups peanut or corn oil
3/4 pound boneless skinless chicken breasts, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch thick slices
1&1/4 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1/4 cup light soy sauce
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1&1/2 tablespoons corn starch
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh cilantro 

1. Heat a large pan of water to a boil; add the noodles. Cook until tender. Drain, rinse
under cold running water, and drain well again. Trim off leek root ends and dark green
tips; halve leeks lengthwise. Wash thoroughly and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick

2. Heat 1&1/4 cups of the oil in a heavy 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the
drained noodles, using a wooden spatula or spoon to spread them evenly and press
them gently, forming an even, loose cake. Fry until their underside is golden brown, 5
to 7 minutes, checking frequently to avoid burning. Then carefully turn the cake over to
cook the other side, about 5 more minutes.

3. A minute or two before turning the noodles, heat the remaining oil in a large wok or
skillet over high heat. Add the leeks and stir-fry about 1 minute. Add the chicken,
stir-frying until it turns golden, about 5 minutes. Add the broth, stirring and scraping to
deglaze. Stir together the soy sauce, rice vinegar and cornstarch; as soon as the liquid in
the wok simmers, stir in the mixture. Continue simmering until the liquid thickens to
coat the chicken and leeks, 2 to 3 minutes.

4. While the liquid simmers, remove the browned noodles from the skillet and drain
on paper towels. Transfer to a heated platter and mound the chicken-and-leek mixture
on top of the noodles. Garnish with cilantro.

Note: You can reduce the oil for cooking the noodles to 1 cup if you use a
heavy-bottomed non-stick skillet. 

This recipe is adapted from ``Bugialli on Pasta'' by Giuliano Bugialli, who writes: ``The
famous all'amatriciana treatment, which originates in Amatrice, near Rome, uses
abundant pancetta or prosciutto as the meat. It is a simple and highly spiced preparation
with black pepper and hot red pepper flakes ... don't mess it up by adding extraneous
ingredients or by trying to be original.''

PASTA, AMATRICE STYLE (Bucatini all'amatriciana)
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 50 minutes
Yield: 4 to 6 servings 
1 medium-size red onion
8 ounces pancetta or prosciutto, in one piece
3 tablespoons olive oil
1&1/2 pounds very ripe, fresh tomatoes; or 1&1/2 pounds canned tomatoes, preferably
imported Italian, drained
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Salt, freshly ground black pepper
1 pound dried bucatini, vermicelli, or spaghetti, preferably imported Italian
Coarse-grained salt
1/2 cup freshly grated pecorino Romano or Parmesan cheese 

1. Coarsely chop the onion. Cut the pancetta or prosciutto into cubes less than 1/2-inch
thick. Put the oil and pancetta in a medium-size saucepan over low heat; cook and stir
until all the fat has been rendered out and the meat is very crisp, about 15 minutes.

2. If fresh tomatoes are used, cut them into pieces. Pass the canned or fresh tomatoes
through a food mill, using the disc with the smallest holes, into a crockery or glass bowl.
Use a slotted spoon to transfer the meat to a plate and set it aside until needed.

3. Add the onion to the saucepan; cook and stir for 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, red
pepper flakes, salt and black pepper to taste. Simmer 20 minutes, stirring every so often
with a wooden spoon.

4. Heat a large pot of cold water to a boil; add coarse salt to taste. Add the pasta and cook
until al dente, for 9 to 12 minutes, depending on the brand. Transfer the sauce to a large
skillet set over low heat. Drain the pasta, and add it to the skillet. Raise the heat, and add
the reserved meat; cook for 30 seconds. Remove the skillet from the heat, add the
cheese, mix very well, and transfer the pasta to a warmed serving platter. Serve. 

   This is adapted from ``The Classic Pasta Cookbook'' by Giuliano Hazan.

FETTUCCINE WITH LEMON (Fettuccine al limone)
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cook time: 15 minutes
Yield 4 servings 
1 pound dried, egg fettuccine
3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon chopped lemon rind (colored part only)
1 cup whipping cream
Salt, freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup freshly grated imported Parmesan cheese 

1. Pour 4 quarts of water into a large saucepan or pot and place over a high heat.

2. Put the butter, lemon juice and lemon rind in a large skillet over medium-high heat.
Once the butter has melted, let the lemon and butter bubble for about 30 seconds.

3. Pour in the cream. Season with salt and black pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until
the cream is reduced by half. Remove the skillet from the heat and set aside.

4. When the water for the pasta is boiling, and the sauce is off the heat, add 1 tablespoon
of salt to the boiling water and drop in the pasta all at once, stirring well.

5. When the pasta is cooked al dente, drain it and transfer to the skillet with the sauce.
Turn the heat to medium and toss the pasta over the heat with the sauce and the grated
cheese for about 15 seconds. Serve at once. 

This is adapted from ``The Classic Pasta Cookbook'' by Giuliano Hazan.

PENNE WITH FOUR CHEESES (Penne ai quattro formaggi)
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 25 minutes
Yield: 4 servings 
1 lb. penne pasta
 1 tablespoon butter
1/2 cup whipping cream
4 ounces fontina, grated
2 ounces Gorgonzola, crumbled
2 ounces mascarpone
1/3 cup freshly grated imported Parmesan cheese
Salt, freshly ground pepper 

1. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Heat 4 quarts of water to a boil in a large saucepan or pot,
add 1 tablespoon of salt, and drop in the pasta all at once, stirring well.

2. Put the butter and cream in a saucepan over low heat. Stir until the butter has melted,
then add all the cheeses, reserving 2 tablespoons of the grated Parmesan. Stir constantly
until the cheeses have melted into the cream, then season with salt and black pepper.
Remove the pan from the heat and set aside.

3. When the pasta is about 1 minute away from being al dente, drain it and toss it with
the sauce in a bowl until the pasta is well coated.

4. Transfer to individual bake-and-serve dishes, or a single ovenproof casserole large
enough to accommodate the pasta to a depth of no more than about 1&1/2 inches.
Sprinkle the remaining 2 tablespoons of Parmesan on top and bake until golden brown:
about 10-15 minutes. When you take the dish out of the oven, allow it to rest for 5
minutes before serving.

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